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Routes in Tailgate Party Wall

Cross Timbers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Spanked S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
N.T.B. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spoon Licker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tailgate Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Training Wheels S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 32 total · 0/month
Shared By: Scott Strong on Sep 1, 2011
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

From the guidebook:

Climb the mini-buttress at the base of DC#1. The first bolt may look easier to get than it is. Traverse in from the right. There are variant paths to the 2nd bolt: coming up right from the first bolt through the huecos)is easier, and more secure, than coming up from its left side. From a stance below the mini-hang, figure out how to purchase, and leverage, the cool scoop-cup-like hold, and keep it together until rim holds come to the rescue.

Protection

2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Mark Pell  
 
This was my first new route at POB. It's a little weird but it appealed to me the first time I saw it, walking down with Kirk to go do his new Rock-About route. There used to be a tall straight tree right in front of Tailgate Party that blocked the trail and the view of the route and made it difficult to belay, but a windstorm blew it down in 2007 and did me a favor. Keith used the trunk to stabilize that section of the trail. I've asked several people who have climbed Tailgate Party if they thought it was underprotected with two bolts and they've all thought a minute and said no. Then I asked if they liked it and most said yes. But hardly anyone ever climbs it and those who do usually never climb it again, so it's either too scary or it just sucks. If Freddie doesn't sell the ranch this year I may rebolt T.P soon to make it safer and encourage more traffic. If you have an opinion let me hear it. Mar 10, 2013