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Piss & Vinegar

5.9+, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 8 votes
FA: Shawn Johnson & Jeremy Johnson - 1997
Idaho > W Idaho > Black Cliffs > Green Acres
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures. All areas currently open. Details

Description

This is a splitter fist/offwidth crack in a right facing corner. It would be much more difficult if it didn't have the opposite corner to stem off of for most of the height. The rock making up the offwidth (90% of the climb) is very good, but after the crack ends you need to make a couple easy but committing face moves on less than inspiring rock.

Location

Just to the left of "GW Love Peanut Butter"

Protection

You could place as many #4 camalots as you want. Lacking multiple #4s, I was also able to find a place for a #5 about 1/3 the way up, and a #3 at the very top before the crack jogs left. You can place a #0.75C4 in the horizontal before the face moves, but the rock is a bit hollow sounding...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cory onsights P&V.
[Hide Photo] Cory onsights P&V.
Reggie in the maw of the beast.
[Hide Photo] Reggie in the maw of the beast.
Reggie on Fariway to Heaven.  Piss & Vinegar is the wide crack in the middle, and GW Loves Peanut Butter is on the right side (named after the grafitti at its base).
[Hide Photo] Reggie on Fariway to Heaven. Piss & Vinegar is the wide crack in the middle, and GW Loves Peanut Butter is on the right side (named after the grafitti at its base).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scrivm
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Fun, great off width! Get after it! #5 is nice. Aug 30, 2013
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This section of the wall has fallen and this route no longer exists. Sep 7, 2014