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Routes in Overhanging Tower

North East Ridge T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Northwest Ridge/West Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 450 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,607 total · 41/month
Shared By: Cam Reade on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

From the col. move up and west, hitting ramps that lead across the west face of the tower. (fairly well established rock carins once you find the first one) Most of this route is only 4th class so climb accordingly. The last 100' feet has a few steps that warrant the use of a rope. Decend the route you came up. This route is exceedingly dangerous when wet.

Location

First tower South West of the Wolf's Head

Protection

light rack and short rope.
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th Easy Snow
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th Easy Snow
To find the start of the cairned route (and path of least resistance) look for a dihedral that is obvious from the col and very close to it. Its got a nice crack going up the left side. We were comfortable scrambling up and down the route sans rope but having one along still seemed like a good idea. Jul 4, 2012
BackAtItAgain
  5.0 Easy Snow
BackAtItAgain  
  5.0 Easy Snow
Fun route for either a rest day - or a trip without gear. We did this with rock shoes and no rope. Not bad at all. Top 25' to the top is a bit slabby - but chickenheads abound...

Great summit! Aug 21, 2012
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Climbed by solo in 2008. The scramble to the col is very loose. Ledges up and right to the west side. I took a narrow chimney to the slab finish. I down climbed a crack just to the left which was definitely a little more tricky. You can sit on top and take in the entire cirque, really awesome. Sitting on that small summit is exposed and exciting. Jul 19, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: William Cropper, John Dietschy, Harris Tallan, 1955. Mar 13, 2018
Adam Mills
Athens, OH
  Easy 5th Easy Snow
Adam Mills   Athens, OH
  Easy 5th Easy Snow
I did this route solo in hiking shoes and no rope. The ascent/descent of the col is by far the most dangerous and grueling part. The last 200ft or so of the col is loose dirt and rocks that is very tricky to navigate and maintain good footing, although I'm sure the condition of this changes with the seasons and the years.

The route itself is fairly easy to navigate once you start. Just take the path of least of resistance and follow cairns when you see them. If you are a strong and confident climber you will find that there are several different possible lines to take up until the final 80ft, where only one real line exists. The last 20ft of slab is by far the most exposed, however there are many protrusions that make it easier than it looks. I never really felt that there was a consequence of completely falling off the tower, all of the climbing contained a fall down to a ledge or other 4th class terrain, which would still be a dangerous and harmful fall, but no thousand foot fall potential.

I went into The Cirque solo and this was a great route to fill the day. It took me 1.5 hours from Cirque Lake to the summit. Sep 22, 2018

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