Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Sweeny & Royal Robbins, 1978
Page Views: 694 total · 8/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This route starts up a short overhang that gains a large ledge with a bush. From there, gain the thin crack above. Now about 20 feet up, the rock becomes more solid. Climb along the thin crack transfering into another to the right as you move up. Gain a large ledge and move up into a short crack system that is more solid than it looks. Top out and belay the second. There are ample placements along the way, but I think some cam placements could be bad news if it caught a fall, so be aware!

Location

It is on the west side, toward the entrance, and is the next route down and left from the obvious route Othello. Start up a strenuous overhang above a bunch of rasberry bushes. It has a loose start.

Protection

Double rack micro up to #2 Camalot and small stoppers plus a bunch of runners (10 or more). Bring more thin gear if you want to sew it. There is a big tree at the top to extend your belay and rap from. Telluride Rocks notes the tree to be a 120 foot rap, we used 2 60m ropes. It seemed like one may work but didn't pay attention due to a storm, maybe someone else has input?

Per Ross Perrot: a single 60m will not get you down.

Photos

Ross Perrot
Telluride
  5.8
Ross Perrot   Telluride
  5.8
A 70m gets you down, a 60 won't. You need a lot of slings/cord in order to extend the tree anchor up top if you want to set up a TR. There are 3 or 4 fun climbs off of the anchor if you decide to do so. The route directly up the middle (in between Chip Off and Lago) on a series of ledges is fun (5.10). Jun 8, 2017