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Routes in Cracked Canyon

Air Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Algebra T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attica T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Splat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cello T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chewbacca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chip Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Come On Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Mind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Money T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exodus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Grasp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Froggy Bottoms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Genesis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Icy Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Javelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lago T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limey Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Orange Peel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pirouette T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roller Skates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round The Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salvation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Secrets Of Nature T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Summertime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superfresh T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Teacher's Pet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Third Grade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Thor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tick Fever T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Tobacco Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Where The WIld Things Are T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Sweeny & Royal Robbins, 1978
Page Views: 626 total, 8/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts up a short overhang that gains a large ledge with a bush. From there, gain the thin crack above. Now about 20 feet up, the rock becomes more solid. Climb along the thin crack transfering into another to the right as you move up. Gain a large ledge and move up into a short crack system that is more solid than it looks. Top out and belay the second. There are ample placements along the way, but I think some cam placements could be bad news if it caught a fall, so be aware!

Location

It is on the west side, toward the entrance, and is the next route down and left from the obvious route Othello. Start up a strenuous overhang above a bunch of rasberry bushes. It has a loose start.

Protection

Double rack micro up to #2 Camalot and small stoppers plus a bunch of runners (10 or more). Bring more thin gear if you want to sew it. There is a big tree at the top to extend your belay and rap from. Telluride Rocks notes the tree to be a 120 foot rap, we used 2 60m ropes. It seemed like one may work but didn't pay attention due to a storm, maybe someone else has input?

Per perrotr Perrot: a single 60m will not get you down.

Photos

perrotr Perrot
Telluride
  5.8
perrotr Perrot   Telluride
  5.8
A 70m gets you down, a 60 won't. You need a lot of slings/cord in order to extend the tree anchor up top if you want to set up a TR. There are 3 or 4 fun climbs off of the anchor if you decide to do so. The route directly up the middle (in between Chip Off and Lago) on a series of ledges is fun (5.10). Jun 8, 2017