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Poligrip

5.12b, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Upper East Fork… > The Amphitheater

Description

Can be done as either one or two pitches. The mid-way belay ledge is a fun place to chill and watch the action. The first half to the ledge is a 5.8 munge but worth the effort.

Location

The middle route on the headwall. Shares an anchor with AMS. See the
Headwall routes.

Protection

5 bolts on the headwall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to tick all three, it's worth staging at the mid-way anchor, otherwise take some long runners and do each in a single pitch. It works well to clip the first bolt on the headwall and then unclip the anchor (consider taking lockers).
[Hide Photo] All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to tick all three, it's worth staging at the mid-way anchor, otherwise take some long runners and do each in a single pitch. It works well to clip th…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] If climbing this in one pitch, it is helpful to do some back-cleaning and use long runners on the 5.8 approach. Whether climbed in one pitch or two, the super-steep and surprisingly technical climbing on the upper headwall is well worth the effort to get there! Jul 15, 2012