Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Cedar Wright (year?)
Page Views: 3,003 total · 34/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Great rock, secluded location, and interesting movement make this an all-around amazing roof crack. 30 feet of heel-toe-camming, double-fist-stacking goodness. There is no defined crux as it is all sustained inversion climbing. If you like offwidth, this is a must-do...and bring your abs of steel!

Most likely underwater early season.

This route was featured in Sender Films' First Ascent.

Location

Approach is described in the Cedar Eater Boulder description.

Protection

A pad would be nice, but more importantly a good spotter or two are necessary. The first half is low enough that you can put your hands down and get your feet out of the crack, but later on the landing gets further away and much sharper. Nothing like falling headfirst into pointy rocks to ruin your day.

I taped my hands and also my shoes for this. I have found this type of foot-cam destroys the rands on my shoes.

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The crux is definitely the exit, using a very sharp and kinda small crimper to gain a fist jam. The inverted bit is casual, and if you lead with your left side instead of right (most people lead w/ rightside), you don't need to stack at all. Sep 19, 2011
David Aguasca!
New York
  V5
David Aguasca!   New York
  V5
Or you can do it the way that's pictured in the film, using your feet as jugs. To me that just felt very awkward. Sep 22, 2011
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
directions from ST tread
supertopo.com/climbers-foru…
whitemeat:
You are on the mist trail, and you are before the bridge that takes you to the granite steps. There is a part where you drop down a hill and you come across a big mossy overhang thing on the left side. This big roof/overhang will attract you because you are a climber! Every time i walk by I think, wow, that would be cool... There might even be chalk on the base.. Right across from that overhang on the other side of the trail is a little man made rock wall, it is not a wall sticking up to protect you from falling, but rather holding the trail up. The trail also takes a right turn right here and goes up hill. So, at the overhang you go down towards the river, once at the river follow the rivers edge up stream until you find the crack! You can't miss it, walk a little farther then you think you may have to...

Hardest part is finding the part on the trail where you need to cut off... Oct 26, 2015