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Routes in Wild Rose Buttress

Ass Pin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob-Bob-a-Ramp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Over & Out T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rose Gardening T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Rose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kevin Leary (May '78)
Page Views: 206 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 27, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the best climb on the cliff. It is sustained and varied with excellent rock and movement. Extend some pieces to avoid rope drag.

Start at a giant flake thing that is protruding from the wall. I climbed the right side of it, but it might also be possible to start on the left. Climb the crack through a series of bulges to reach the final arching splitter. This section has great position as the cliff drops away just a few feet below you. Don't get tunnel vision here and look around for other features besides the finger crack. Pull through one last bulge to the top.

The guidebook says it has a piton anchor. We found one piton which can be backed up by gear. To descend, scramble right on 3rd/easy 4th class
to the bolted anchors above Bob-Bob-a-Ramp. Rappel with one 60m rope.

Protection

Pro to 2" with some extra finger size cams.

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