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Routes in Candlelight Buttress

Big Blue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chicken Pot Pie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Responder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For Whom The Road Tolls S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jonny Cash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Inaction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Cramps T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One That Got Away, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinky The Strap-on S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheltering Sky T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk the Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jonny Woodward, Darrell Hensel (Oct '07)
Page Views: 241 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 27, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

From the flat Center Terrace walk left and start climbing the hill along the base. Look for Famous Authors, which begins up a left facing corner. First Responder begins just to the right, at a right facing flake.

Pitch 1: Climb a chossy flake about 10 feet then reach out right and clip the first bolt. Traverse right across the blank slab to reach steeper and more featured rock. Head straight up on good knobs, pulling over a small bulge (10a+) to reach lower angle terrain. Wander up past another couple bolts to the anchor. There are several bolted anchors around here and it can be confusing trying to figure out which is the right one.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up along a line of bolts, just to the left of a water-streak. This pitch and the next are considerably easier than the first.

Pitch 3: It gets a bit more runout here which isn't necessarily scary because the climbing is quite easy, however it does make it much more difficult to spot the next bolt and where you are going. Just keep climbing up and follow the path of least resistance.

From the top make 3 raps with one 70m rope. I recall some of these being close to 35m, so pay attention to your ends.

Protection

8 or 9 quick-draws should be plenty.

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