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Routes in Potter's Point

Beef Summer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beefmaster 3000 TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caveman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Explosive Meatloaf TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ms. T S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Omega Glory S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Operation Crumb Weasel S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speefnarkle.com S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Edwards
Page Views: 477 total, 6/month
Shared By: steve edwards on Aug 25, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Strange route the has a cool traverse under the edge of the roof and then a weird move to turn the lip.

Protection

Bolts

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steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
It's in my guide but I don't want to go look. It's harder for sure. c or d I called it. PL might have been given 11+ but only because I thought it was easier than Caveman, which has a really hard move. PL has a lot of trickery, hence the name, but isn't too bad. That other thing was kind of awful as I recall. Easy to a really hard sequence turning the lip and you're done. Mar 14, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Don't worry if the moves on this route aren't immediately obvious; I had no idea how the line went for a while. Here's the skinny: start as for Caveman, but once you get to the "lip", start traversing left on the big huecos and holes. Move through an engaging sequence of heel-hooks, hand-foot-matches, crimps, and funky holds till you eventually turn the lip. After the lip encounter, difficulties ease a bit. I always overlooked this route, thinking it was too weird and too esoteric. It's now one of my favorites, and was lucky to flash it after watching Bernd climb it.

Note: there is another line on the face between Pretzel Logic and Caveman, and it's pretty hard. Definitely harder than 5.12a. I was under the impression that Pretzel Logic was rated 5.12a, and the climb between Pretzel Logic and Caveman was 5.12c. Judging from the relative difficulties of each line, I assume I must have the grades or names mixed up.

Help here Steve? Dec 3, 2011