Type: Sport
FA: Edwards
Page Views: 526 total · 6/month
Shared By: steve edwards on Aug 25, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Strange route the has a cool traverse under the edge of the roof and then a weird move to turn the lip.

Protection

Bolts

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Don't worry if the moves on this route aren't immediately obvious; I had no idea how the line went for a while. Here's the skinny: start as for Caveman, but once you get to the "lip", start traversing left on the big huecos and holes. Move through an engaging sequence of heel-hooks, hand-foot-matches, crimps, and funky holds till you eventually turn the lip. After the lip encounter, difficulties ease a bit. I always overlooked this route, thinking it was too weird and too esoteric. It's now one of my favorites, and was lucky to flash it after watching Bernd climb it.

Note: there is another line on the face between Pretzel Logic and Caveman, and it's pretty hard. Definitely harder than 5.12a. I was under the impression that Pretzel Logic was rated 5.12a, and the climb between Pretzel Logic and Caveman was 5.12c. Judging from the relative difficulties of each line, I assume I must have the grades or names mixed up.

Help here Steve? Dec 3, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
  5.12c
steve edwards   SLC, UT
  5.12c
It's in my guide but I don't want to go look. It's harder for sure. c or d I called it. PL might have been given 11+ but only because I thought it was easier than Caveman, which has a really hard move. PL has a lot of trickery, hence the name, but isn't too bad. That other thing was kind of awful as I recall. Easy to a really hard sequence turning the lip and you're done. Mar 14, 2012