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Routes in Roadwork Wall

Impotent T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Made in the Shade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manzanar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out on a Limb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overpass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Work T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Shoulder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Errett Allen, Alan Bartlett, Steve Plunkett (Feb, '87)
Page Views: 35 total, 0/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 25, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

This is the route furthest left on Roadwork Wall. Hike all the way to the left end, past Made in the Shade, and then scramble up a ways to a ledge that comes in from the left.

Rope up on this ledge (which might be covered in ants) and climb out onto the limb of a tree. Clip a bolt and head up the slab for a shallow dihedral. This left-facing corner takes small to "1 gear. Exit the corner onto the slab to the right. Then more slab climbing leads past the occasional rest knob and the occasional bolt. It gets steeper and thinner as you near the end. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor and then rap to the ground with 2 60m ropes.

I found this climb to be hard as hell for the grade, but I suppose that has been my reaction to pretty much any slab climb in the Portal.

Protection

Mostly bolts, plus gear to 1".

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