Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: E.Harz, M.Collar, R.Shore 2011
Page Views: 1,479 total · 16/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Aug 24, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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"The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please."

Climb up some good plates and edges past the first bolt and into the huge hueco. An awesome 2-finger pocket gets you established at the overhanging bulge. Pull over the bulge on good holds and make a desperate escape left onto the thin slab after the last bolt.


Located amongst some formations to the northwest of the main LLUA Crag. See map on main page for directions.


4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Walkoff/downclimb an easy V0 boulder problem on the far northeast corner of the formation.


M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Do you think the rug peers did this? Sep 4, 2011
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
the climbing leading to the dustbowl is fun and harder than it looks, then the best part begins. Some strong cranking leads to a spicey topout. The last clip is difficult, however immaculately clean fall potential exists. Walkoff is far climbers right, downclimb an arete. Sep 10, 2011
Jiana ten Brinke
Santa Barbara, CA
Jiana ten Brinke   Santa Barbara, CA
Two words for this route: SUPER FUN! The best part of the climb comes after the big pocket. Sep 10, 2011
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Glad to hear you two enjoyed the route. "Dustbowl" is a rather fitting description of the big hueco. Maybe I'll bring along a big broom to sweep it out next time I'm there. Sep 12, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I was pretty impressed by this climb. The bottom moves provide some elevation, and the last ten feet are slightly mysterious and fun. I thought the last clip was quite mellow, however: you pull up rope while hanging off a solid open-hand edge.

I'm curious about the face to the right. There appears to be a fun line there. Sep 26, 2011
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
The face right of Chinaman did appear to have a potential line (or two), but I initially ignored it due to the poor rock quality down low. It would require pretty extensive cleaning. Sep 26, 2011
matthew hendren
Santa Barbara, California
matthew hendren   Santa Barbara, California
easy first 15 feet to the owl hole, then it gets fun. finger pocket and gaston to just past the next clip, then scoot around to climber's left after the 3rd clip to top out. Jul 16, 2013
I'm not sure if a few holds have broken off near the crux in recent years as today was my first time on the chinaman, but it felt much harder than the nihlist. Also, there was a small lip on a rail above the third bolt which I heavily relied on to get over/onto the bulge and that snapped on me. Not sure if that was part of the original beta but it was helping me a ton. Tried the sequence again after that happened and i got stumped. Jul 6, 2016