[Hide Comment] Do you think the rug peers did this? Sep 4, 2011

[Hide Comment] the climbing leading to the dustbowl is fun and harder than it looks, then the best part begins. Some strong cranking leads to a spicey topout. The last clip is difficult, however immaculately clean fall potential exists. Walkoff is far climbers right, downclimb an arete. Sep 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] Two words for this route: SUPER FUN! The best part of the climb comes after the big pocket. Sep 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] Glad to hear you two enjoyed the route. "Dustbowl" is a rather fitting description of the big hueco. Maybe I'll bring along a big broom to sweep it out next time I'm there. Sep 12, 2011

[Hide Comment] I was pretty impressed by this climb. The bottom moves provide some elevation, and the last ten feet are slightly mysterious and fun. I thought the last clip was quite mellow, however: you pull up rope while hanging off a solid open-hand edge.

I'm curious about the face to the right. There appears to be a fun line there. Sep 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] The face right of Chinaman did appear to have a potential line (or two), but I initially ignored it due to the poor rock quality down low. It would require pretty extensive cleaning. Sep 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] easy first 15 feet to the owl hole, then it gets fun. finger pocket and gaston to just past the next clip, then scoot around to climber's left after the 3rd clip to top out. Jul 16, 2013

[Hide Comment] I'm not sure if a few holds have broken off near the crux in recent years as today was my first time on the chinaman, but it felt much harder than the nihlist. Also, there was a small lip on a rail above the third bolt which I heavily relied on to get over/onto the bulge and that snapped on me. Not sure if that was part of the original beta but it was helping me a ton. Tried the sequence again after that happened and i got stumped. Jul 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] Cruxy crux Jan 20, 2019

[Hide Comment] Yeah, I suspect some holds around the crux are gone. I think it should still be do-able but I wasn't able to find the beta this weekend. May 6, 2019

[Hide Comment] Like others have mentioned - some holds definitely seem to have broken off. Still a fun route, but I might call it 11c. Hucking from the slopey crimps over the bulge is pretty burly. Dec 4, 2021

[Hide Comment] I got on this route again a couple days ago and discovered that a key right hand crimp over the bulge is now massively flexing. I pulled on it somewhat gingerly for fear of ripping it off. I suspect the route might still go if the crimp breaks into something usable, but might be a lot less fun if not. I wanted to ask--what are the ethics on reinforcing holds in this area?

Also of note: the bolts on this route are in disrepair. The first bolt and one of the anchor bolts are spinners, and the other anchor bolt is wiggling in the rock. Jul 8, 2025