Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 571 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Academia Nut starts near a cedar tree in a right-facing dihedral with a short hand crack. Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up the hand crack followed by a left-leaning incipient crack to another corner with a bolt, the first on the route, maybe 35 feet up. Getting past the first bolt is the crux (a "brain-teaser" according to the Ruckmans' 1998 guide), followed by some wild climbing and great position. Expect some minor looseness.

Location

Walk up the switchbacks for about 10 minutes until you get to a relatively large flat area under a cedar tree with a few bolted lines just to the right (Pop Quiz and Basic Aeronautics). Look for the hand crack mentioned in the description -- it's the only vertical hand crack starting off the ground in Higher Education Gully.

Protection

A small rack is needed to get to the first bolt; draws thereafter (3 lead bolts total). Include a set of brass or steel nuts (off-sets useful), some mid-sized stoppers, a set of cams to 1 inch, and a 2-3 inch cam (No. 3 Camalot) for the opening hand crack. Rap from chains (shared with Trail of Tiers).

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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Love the name! Aug 24, 2011
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Climbing up and down and in and out of a crux searching for holds for 20 min may just be the quintisenttial BCC onsiting experience. I ended up solving this "brain-teaser" of a crux by cleverly pulling on the draw. Like any good teasing, if it goes on too long it simply loses it's fun. I never would have found that hidden hold that keeps it "11c" even if I had searched for another hour. I suppose this either adds to the experience or takes from it depending on who you are... Academia Nut...may I have my taken experience back?

Perhaps it would make for a fine redpoint. Aug 28, 2018