Type: Snow, 3000 ft (909 m), Grade II
FA: unknown to me.
Page Views: 5,623 total · 36/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Aug 23, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

This route has a long approach through some very scenic areas to a bit of easy snow and glacier travel.  

From White Pass (on the PCT), hike the Foam Creek trail east for about 2 miles. Cross the ridge at a saddle to the north around 6600 ft and cross the basin (White Chuck Glacier), trending NE until reaching Glacier Gap at 7300 ft.  This is a large area with many scenic campsites.

From Glacier Gap, ascend slopes trending north, first side-hilling on the left slope and then transitioning to the right slope below Glacier Gap Peak (marked 7739 ft on some maps), then regain the ridge.  Continue along the ridge to around 8400 ft.  Traverse right (NE) onto the upper Suiattle Glacier, then below and to the right of some cliffs to reach the upper Cool Glacier around 9200 ft.  Ascend the Cool Glacier in a westward direction until regaining the ridge at the top of the glacier.

Alternative route: Ascend directly up the South Ridge to Disappointment Peak (9755 ft), before descending slightly to the saddle above the Cool Glacier.  This variation avoids the glacier travel on the Suiattle and Cool glaciers and can be an option for teams wishing to forego glacier gear, or later in the season as the glacier becomes more difficult to navigate.  Use caution as much of the rock in this area is quite loose.

After passing Disappointment Peak on either route, follow the ridge north on scree or snow until reaching the summit.

Location Suggest change

Located on the south side of Glacier Peak. The route starts at Glacier Gap. Most people approach from White Pass on the PCT.  The most common approach (as of 2023) is via the North Fork Sauk Trail, from the SW side of the mountain.  Check with the Wenatchee rangers for current info.

Protection Suggest change

Axe and crampons. Glacier gear.