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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

Super Crack of the Monument T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiggle Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I did this climb quiet a long time ago, and it stands out as one of the best single pitches in The Monument. There is a plaque at the base. I seem to remember the upper third of the route being the crux protected by some green Aliens. The climb follows a small crack recessed in a shallow squeeze. I remember doing some squeezing next to a large block that seemed to be fairly secure, but you never know.... You end up jamming with one hand and doing the Wiggle Worm with your body. It is a great climb to do if hiking all the way to Super Crack of the Monument.

Location

This route is roughly a 200 feet up canyon from Supercrack. Look for a plaque and a splitter!

Protection

I would take one of each up to a #1 and maybe 3-5 #0.5 Camalots with a few green Alien size, too. There are anchors at the top. Bring two ropes to rap.

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Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Followed this yesterday, and I can't wait to head back to lead it. It's just as good as Supercrack. The majority is 5.10, with a short hard crux. You can stretch out your finger sized cams more if you bring a 2, 3, and maybe a 4. Can just barely be lowered off with one 70m rope - knot the end! Anchor webbing is fresh as of yesterday, but you'll probably want to bring your own. Mar 29, 2016
This rig is sweet looking! Mar 31, 2014
Justin P.
Grand Junction, CO
Justin P.   Grand Junction, CO
Amazing route, but don't be fooled. You'll need all the small gear you've got. I would recommend at least the 2 green Aliens metioned above if not more, but I would also take at least doubles of BD 0.3 and 0.4s as well. I used them all and still wanted more. Great position, amazing climbing...a must do if you wander all the way up to Super Crack. Apr 27, 2013

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