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Routes in West Horn

East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Ayres and Alexander Creswell, July 24, 1953.
Page Views: 882 total, 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Refer to the approach information for the West Horn.
Ascend the aforementioned gully, climbing the headwall and attaining easy ground leading to the base of the upper ridge.
Start the first pitch just west of the crest. Follow the broad ridge above with many variations possible for three more pitches, mostly slabby climbing, with one small sub-tower before the last pitch to the top. This tower has an airy hand traverse along its top and is a distinctive feature of the climb.


Descent: from the summit, clamber northward a few feet on the knife edge ridge to the obvious collection of slings. Make a single rope rap to the dark gray ledge below, about 60 feet, and easily climb up left (facing in) to the next belay station, which can be spotted from the first rap anchor.
From the second station make a two-rope rap down to a big talus ledge, then do one more two rope rap to the ground.
There's evidence of many other descents but this one works and avoids diagonal raps.

Location

Information included here for the West Horn and this particular route will be sufficient for locating the climb. The CMC approach is covered under Mt. Moran.

Protection

A small rack and lots of runners will be adequate. Include some small wires and cams to 3"
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.5
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.5
Actually managed to climb this by mistake while looking for the CMC route. The tat at the indicated rappels was really bad (actually ripped one piece of tubular webbing apart with my hands up there), we added new slings.

Honestly, no regrets. This thing was really fun. The approach gully is the only kinda sheisty part, once you are up on the cleaner face above the climbing is great. Aug 29, 2017