No Country For Old Men
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,173 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Jaaron Mankins on Aug 21, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route features some of the best crack climbing on the tower and was the first route on the tower climbed. The crux comes on the overhanging handcrack on pitch 3. The first three pitches are awesome, and then the angle eases and the climbing is quite easy to the top. Would like to get some anchors on this one soon. The line is not really obvious, and numerous lines can be climbed off of each ledge system.
P1: start up wide, wet crack and go straight up or left, then up handcrack next to a small cave to large ledge and belay. 5.9, 180'.
P2: this pitch is killer. Climb straight up stembox that looks much harder than it is and exit at top right of stembox on giant jugs and great gear. Follow smaller dihedrals and overlaps up to ledge and belay. 5.9, 200'.
P3: this is the sweet, overhanging handcrack that one can see from below on the approach. It starts out 0.75 and goes up to a #3 Camalot at the top-slightly overhanging and strenuous. Belay??? with not much for an anchor. 5.10+, ?'.
P4-6: climb up to the top of the tower after the crux pitch. 5.4-5.7, 400'.