Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: JM/CP
Page Views: 1,612 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jaaron Mankins on Aug 21, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This route features some of the best crack climbing on the tower and was the first route on the tower climbed. The crux comes on the overhanging handcrack on pitch 3. The first three pitches are awesome, and then the angle eases and the climbing is quite easy to the top. Would like to get some anchors on this one soon. The line is not really obvious, and numerous lines can be climbed off of each ledge system.

P1: start up wide, wet crack and go straight up or left, then up handcrack next to a small cave to large ledge and belay. 5.9, 180'.

P2: this pitch is killer. Climb straight up stembox that looks much harder than it is and exit at top right of stembox on giant jugs and great gear. Follow smaller dihedrals and overlaps up to ledge and belay. 5.9, 200'.

P3: this is the sweet, overhanging handcrack that one can see from below on the approach. It starts out 0.75 and goes up to a #3 Camalot at the top-slightly overhanging and strenuous. Belay??? with not much for an anchor. 5.10+, ?'.

P4-6: climb up to the top of the tower after the crux pitch. 5.4-5.7, 400'.

Location

Follow trail as for the Nuggernaut. Go past the 'naut and follow the cliff down and to the south. Keep walking until you come to a nice amphitheater with a few climbable lines. There are numerous ways to start the first pitch, and there are many caves in this area. The first ascent followed the slightly wet crack up and around to the left.

Protection

Standard trad rack with extra hand-sized pieces and long runners. There are no bolts or anchors on this one yet. There may be some fixed nuts at the ledge below the crux handcrack.

Photos