Mountain Project Logo

Routes in EB's Love Muscle

Putterman Sex Machine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C0
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey 16 November 1997
Page Views: 904 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Aug 20, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start out with easy free climbing, to a upside down, half hammered in drilled pin. Clip the good bolt directly above as soon as possible. Mantle over the top to a 3 pin anchor.

Location

Look for the bolts up high on the tower, and start below them.

Protection

A few cams for the start, 2 draws, 100' rope.

Photos

Ben Kiessel  
 
Hey Cam,
Do you want me to take the route name off? I could just call it 'Original Route' or something.
Ben Aug 30, 2014
Once again, we called this "EB's Love Muscle." Eric changed the name in one of his books. There was never a route name. But hey, let's create one. Climbers make so much stuff up it's disturbing. Especially the magazine editors. Most have hardly climbed anything and yet they get to be the gateway to what's said and reported. Climbing magazines are the equivalent of Fox News. This is the tip of my experience with them. Aug 23, 2014
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.6 A0 PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.6 A0 PG13
great fun! awesome views, worth it for that alone. a bit of a drive. i got one purple then one small blue camalot at the start. one 5.6 mantle move and some dirt and your at the pin. not sure how much longer that pin is going to hold. good thing the bolt is close and fairly easy to clip. easy to french free. 3 pins on top. Apr 1, 2012
I used 2 .5's down low. The rock is typical flakiness. There is a piton and bolt and the anchor is at the lip. Fun little tower to do. Mar 11, 2012