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Unknown Chimney

5.8, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 66 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > W Shore > Eagle Creek Canyon > Eagle Lake Cliff

Description

This climb is pretty fun for the novelty alone. A progressively widening chimney finally leads to face moves at the very top. Well, for the shorties it does, at even a mere 6' in height I was able to use the back wall all the way up to get my full stem's worth. Bolts make this climb very accessible.

Location

This climb is located in the obvious chimney formed by the detached pillar that is directly in front of the wall forming the famous Spacewalk crack system.

Protection

Bolts to rap anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route is pretty much as expected
[Hide Photo] The route is pretty much as expected
Andy leading Unknown Chimney
[Hide Photo] Andy leading Unknown Chimney
Unnamed Chimney
[Hide Photo] Unnamed Chimney
Most difficulty I've had standing still on two feet -- photo by Ben Campbell
[Hide Photo] Most difficulty I've had standing still on two feet -- photo by Ben Campbell
Final move to anchors. Might have made it harder than it needed to be.
[Hide Photo] Final move to anchors. Might have made it harder than it needed to be.
Bodin near the anchor of Unknown Chimney
[Hide Photo] Bodin near the anchor of Unknown Chimney
on rappel
[Hide Photo] on rappel
High in the chimney
[Hide Photo] High in the chimney

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

KayJ
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] This was a very fun, yet difficult chimney for me. I could slid my back up most of the way! Although it is nicely bolted, it gets very wide near the top and being only 5.3 it was pretty scary because I had to move my back off the wall and basically move my whole body to the inside wall and climb it like a technical crimpy route - which made it hard for grade. The view is amazing!! Aug 24, 2015
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
[Hide Comment] Fun, challenging, and well protected route. Lead this to set-up TR on the super topo 4 star 'Off the Wall' 10c Jun 12, 2017
Alben Osaki
Port Aransas, TX
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Very fun route with a great view. Easy hike out here on the last day of a Tahoe trip and only had time to do this one climb but it was well worth it! One of the highlights of the trip.

Note: If you're going during a peak season be sure to go early. Every day we drove past the Eagle Lake trail parking lot it was jam packed. Even on the day we went, we got there around 8a and there was zero parking. We had to park in the Vikingsholm parking lot near Emerald Bay and walk. Jul 21, 2020