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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

Super Crack of the Monument T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiggle Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: K. C. Baum
Page Views: 4,486 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tom Cruise on Aug 17, 2011 with updates from Sean Lynn
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Private property Details

Description

Climb a 15 foot detached pillar before reaching the crack. Start out on thin hands, to perfect hands, to wide hands (majority of the climb is BD #3s), then back to hands near the top.

Location

At the mouth of Red Canyon on the East-facing buttress, look for the detached pillar and the obvious splitter.

Protection

BD C4s #2s and #3s also found a spot for a #4.

There are camouflaged anchors at the top.

Photos

Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10
Classic. 70m rope. Jul 12, 2013
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
  5.10
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
  5.10
Must do if you live in GJ. Completely worth the hike. Also save a #1 for the top. It may turn out useful. Jul 13, 2013
KCLewis
Grand Junction
KCLewis   Grand Junction
What's a better approach: above and down...do you walk to the buttress and rap, walk down the canyon? or hike East from Liberty Cap parking and walk 2 miles East and then up? Sounds like the neighbors think this is THEIR backyard and won't allow access from the street right there at "Chinle Ct". Looks like a great line with horrible access. Mar 1, 2015
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
If you park off of S. Camp Road before turning into the neighborhood that leads to the mouth of the canyon, you can hike up the wash that leads into the canyon. This adds 15 or so minutes of flat hiking to the approach if you were to park by the fancy houses right at the mouth of the canyon. A little frustrating to not be able to have better access, but it's a lot better than rapping in or approaching from Liberty Cap. Mar 4, 2015
Brandon Chalk
  5.10
Brandon Chalk  
  5.10
Phenomenal route! I love the fact that it’s hard to access. If all you have is a 60m, you can climb the first detached pillar as a first pitch and belay from the top of the pillar for the crack proper 2nd pitch. Also, from the ground to the anchors is definitely more than 100’, and you need a 70m if belaying from the ground. Jan 15, 2018

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