Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: K. C. Baum
Page Views: 4,905 total · 52/month
Shared By: Tom Cruise on Aug 17, 2011 with improvements by Sean Lynn
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private property Details


Climb a 15 foot detached pillar before reaching the crack. Start out on thin hands, to perfect hands, to wide hands (majority of the climb is BD #3s), then back to hands near the top.


At the mouth of Red Canyon on the East-facing buttress, look for the detached pillar and the obvious splitter.


BD C4s #2s and #3s also found a spot for a #4.

There are camouflaged anchors at the top.


Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
Classic. 70m rope. Jul 12, 2013
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
Must do if you live in GJ. Completely worth the hike. Also save a #1 for the top. It may turn out useful. Jul 13, 2013
Grand Junction
KCLewis   Grand Junction
What's a better approach: above and down...do you walk to the buttress and rap, walk down the canyon? or hike East from Liberty Cap parking and walk 2 miles East and then up? Sounds like the neighbors think this is THEIR backyard and won't allow access from the street right there at "Chinle Ct". Looks like a great line with horrible access. Mar 1, 2015
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
If you park off of S. Camp Road before turning into the neighborhood that leads to the mouth of the canyon, you can hike up the wash that leads into the canyon. This adds 15 or so minutes of flat hiking to the approach if you were to park by the fancy houses right at the mouth of the canyon. A little frustrating to not be able to have better access, but it's a lot better than rapping in or approaching from Liberty Cap. Mar 4, 2015
Brandon Chalk
Edwards, CO
Brandon Chalk   Edwards, CO
Phenomenal route! I love the fact that it’s hard to access. If all you have is a 60m, you can climb the first detached pillar as a first pitch and belay from the top of the pillar for the crack proper 2nd pitch. Also, from the ground to the anchors is definitely more than 100’, and you need a 70m if belaying from the ground. Jan 15, 2018