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Magnum Opus

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 166 votes
FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2005
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium

Description

Start off on a high hold and pull onto face. Tackle the crux between bolts 2 and 4 by figuring out which pockets to use. Go to the ledge above the fourth bolt before clipping it. Rest on the ledge and then a couple bolts higher in the hueco that you can completely crawl into. 5.10 from the ledge to the top.
(Originally rated a 12b the route was down graded by popular consensus.)

Location

Fourth route from the left side of the wall

Protection

9 bolts and anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

In the middle of the crux at the third bolt. A few more moves to a big ledge and then a sit down rest before the juggy climbing to the top. April 2019.
[Hide Photo] In the middle of the crux at the third bolt. A few more moves to a big ledge and then a sit down rest before the juggy climbing to the top. April 2019.
Travis Farnham about to crawl into that nice hueco rest
[Hide Photo] Travis Farnham about to crawl into that nice hueco rest
Jen on Magnum Opus
[Hide Photo] Jen on Magnum Opus
Travis Farnham crimping past bolt 2 on the bottom of the route
[Hide Photo] Travis Farnham crimping past bolt 2 on the bottom of the route
Travis Farnham heading towards the chains on the easy upper section of the route
[Hide Photo] Travis Farnham heading towards the chains on the easy upper section of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I was only finding slopey unpleasantness up and right of the 4th bolt. I wish I'd read this first! At least bolts 3 and 4 are fixed gear (if this is indeed the climb I'm thinking of). Sep 30, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
 
[Hide Comment] Slopey edges after a pockety crux, like charris said. The moves between bolts 2 and 4 are harder than any move on Super Best Friends. Apr 6, 2015
Nathan Devan
Huntsville, AL
[Hide Comment] Crappy first go footy:
youtu.be/xPP-o5PxRv4 Oct 19, 2020
Michael Mulcahy
Hoboken, NJ
[Hide Comment] Third (and final) permadraw on the route has a rusted through wire on the carabineer. Only about a quarter of the wire is still in tact. Oct 25, 2020
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Permadraw is replaced with a new climb tech. Oct 26, 2020