Kids with Guns
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Routes in The Captain
|38 Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Acapulco Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Captain Jameson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Cheap Thrills T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Grandview T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hazed and Confused S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Kids with Guns T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Lunar Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Outside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X|
|Puttin' In Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Warning, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Washed Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Jonathan Garlough, Jim Dickson, and Lincoln Tetherly|
|Page Views:||1,603 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||chinos on Aug 15, 2011|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionKids with Guns! This is a great moderate climb and good intro to climbing at the captain. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the left side of the slab to the height of the land and the P1 anchor. It's a bit sketchy, just as scary, and your missing out on 170' of the climbing.
The route was done ground up with all protection bolts placed free on the lead by hand.
A military helicopter came into the cliff as well. I think they were training? They hovered over the cliff and dropped lines down, it was pretty damn wild!
Start on the left side of the main slab.
P1: Climb the first pitch of Captain Jameson. Climb straight up the left side of the slab past a big bowl sized hole and clip the first bolt. Run it out to the overlap and place gear. Move left and exit the overlap and continue straight up placing gear. Clip the second bolt and then a two bolt anchor. 170' 5.7 R
P2: Walk left along the tree ledge for 30'. Start at a large rail at head height and bolts above can be seen. Climb straight up the face to a jug and pull over onto a ledge (bolt). Make nice slab moves up the face to a second bolt. Continue up the excellent flakes and edges to a two bolt anchor just above the bush. 90' 5.7 PG-13
P3: Step out left on some flakes and go straight up the face to a small headwall with cracks for gear. Angle a bit left and climb the steep and exposed headwall on big holds. Finish up another 15' of slab into the corner with a two bolt anchor (P3 anchor on Captain Jameson). 95' 5.7 PG
Rap off. 2 ropes will get you back to the tree ledge and the P1 anchor.