Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 44.0834, -71.462
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Jim Dickson, and Lincoln Tetherly
Page Views: 2,535 total · 14/month
Shared By: chinos Garlough on Aug 15, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Kids with Guns! This is a great moderate climb and good intro to climbing at the captain. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the left side of the slab to the height of the land and the P1 anchor. It's a bit sketchy, just as scary, and your missing out on 170' of the climbing.
The route was done ground up with all protection bolts placed free on the lead by hand.

A military helicopter came into the cliff as well. I think they were training? They hovered over the cliff and dropped lines down, it was pretty damn wild!

Start on the left side of the main slab.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Captain Jameson. Climb straight up the left side of the slab past a big bowl sized hole and clip the first bolt. Run it out to the overlap and place gear. Move left and exit the overlap and continue straight up placing gear. Clip the second bolt and then a two bolt anchor. 170' 5.7 R

P2: Walk left along the tree ledge for 30'. Start at a large rail at head height and bolts above can be seen. Climb straight up the face to a jug and pull over onto a ledge (bolt). Make nice slab moves up the face to a second bolt. Continue up the excellent flakes and edges to a two bolt anchor just above the bush. 90' 5.7 PG-13

P3: Step out left on some flakes and go straight up the face to a small headwall with cracks for gear. Angle a bit left and climb the steep and exposed headwall on big holds. Finish up another 15' of slab into the corner with a two bolt anchor (P3 anchor on Captain Jameson). 95' 5.7 PG

Rap off. 2 ropes will get you back to the tree ledge and the P1 anchor.

Location Suggest change

Left side of Main Slab

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack, 4 Bolts, Bolt Anchors

Photos

loading