Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Tyler Zimmerman and Gustave Campinini
Page Views: 384 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mike Cohen on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route

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Duluth guidebooks say there are "several variations" which go up the Angel Wall on 3rd Street, but I was only able to find one plausible line. It starts on the right-hand side, on the tufa bordering the small dihedral corner, and goes straight up the face on small slippery crimps.

I don't want to spoil the fun for the adventurous Duluth-er trying to decipher this puzzling route, but getting a very high foot on the tufa is one way to get to the better holds higher on the wall.

I have never seen a rating listed for Angel Wall, so I've given it my best guess. Once I resolved my beta, it felt maybe like a hard 11... but the rock is very slippery and sharp and the climbing style is pretty desperate, so it could possibly be a short 5.12.

This is a really fun and unusual line for the moderate-to-hard climber and seems to have seen VERY few ascents. The reason I am writing this description is because I've been unable to find any info on this climb. If you know something about its history or difficulty rating, please feel free to correct me! Otherwise, go climb it!


Three bolts at the top from which to set up a top-rope. Bring webbing or long slings as quickdraws will not clear the edge of the cliff.


Duluth Mn
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
I bouldered this 3 years ago and remember it being pretty fun. I didn't remember it being desperate but it was a little scary bouldering it. Sep 1, 2011
I put these bolts on with Gustave Campinini in 1998 to head point and completed a solo (placed the smallest alien in the horizontal, flairing crack half way up) but I doubt it would have held a fall from any great height. I rated the route 12a (E6) due to the bouldery nature down low and the deadpoint throw to the sloper rail with crappy feet near the top. If I were to do this today, I'd bring several pads and spotters becaue of how close it is to the road and bailing from the top moves could possibly send you rolling into the street. the E rating comes from an arguement I had with some british friends who gave me crap for even thinking about placing bolts on the route. Several nasty emails from this guy named Steve. Hence the route name "Steve's mom" due to the fact that climbing on this thing without protection is a dangerous endeavor.

Like First Street Boulder (which was developed by Eric Paulson and myself from 1995-1998) we ditched the "no chalk" ethic and let people use what they wanted.

Tyler Zimmerman Apr 3, 2015
Mike Cohen
Mike Cohen  
Neat, thanks for the route history! Maybe I'll go back and try to lead it with gear this summer. Apr 3, 2015