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Routes in Mothers Day Buttress

Mothers Day Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,894 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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11 Opinions

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Description

Length: 335m, 8 pitches
Sun Exposure: receives lots of sun since
Time: 2 - 6 hours to climb the route
car-to-car: 5 - 10 hours
Difficulty: 5.6 or 5.7(variation P2)
Rack: Cams: single set of small to 2" (#2 camalot) and a normal selection of nuts.

An excellent moderate outting and a great route for new leaders to cut there teeth on a longer objective. The descent is not trivial and requires about 1.5 hours, but is relatively straightforward. The climb follows the buttress all on generally good rock with excellent pro opportunities. All anchors all bolted except 2 that utilize trees.

See the topo on the TABVAR site that Chris Perry made for the upcoming new guidebook:

http://www.tabvar.org/sites/default/files/MothersDayButtressTABVARver1.pdf

Location

Park at the cadet pullout on the Lake Minnewanka Scenic Drive about 200m north of the Trans Canada highway just outside of Banff. Walk up the road for about 100m to an obvious gravel slough. Head up the gravel creekbed for about 5 minutes watching on the right for a good climbers trail marked with a cairn. Follow this trail to a rock outcropping. Scramble up (easy) staying on the right side of the BIG gulley. Regain a good climbers trail and follow this up to the base of the route.

Protection

Single set of cams to 2" (#2 camalot), nuts, slings.

Photos

Jon Bradley
Rocky Mountain House
Jon Bradley   Rocky Mountain House
All the belays are bolted now. Pretty fun route. Plenty of choose your own adventure on the climb, just start grabbing holds and go!

The descent was definitely no joke as stated earlier. Involved lots of steep steep down hill, and one rappel. The descent trail is well trodden though. Once you pass cascade falls if your not sure where to go just follow the crampon scrapes on the rocks. Jun 4, 2015
Great entry level route for new trad leader. Harder variations can make it much more interesting.
Typical rockies- not the most straight forward route finding
Walk off is no joke Jul 15, 2014