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Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Sycamore Canyon
> Volunteer Canyon
> South Side
> 3. Pillar Wall
Parallel Universe
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
Routes in 3. Pillar Wall
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Baked Goods T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Parallel Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Resting Bitch Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | JJ Schlick 2011 |
| Page Views: | 794 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
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Description
Parallel Universe is a superb thin crack and face climbing pitch with techy stemming that climbs like a Waterfall route. The stone is solid and the air is clean.
On the east side (climber’s left) of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 80’ to a good sloping ledge with a vertically staggered two bolt belay. There is an anti zipper bolt low on the pitch.
From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seem, and then move past several boulder problems, and a final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past block, and into finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.
On the east side (climber’s left) of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 80’ to a good sloping ledge with a vertically staggered two bolt belay. There is an anti zipper bolt low on the pitch.
From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seem, and then move past several boulder problems, and a final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past block, and into finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.
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