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Routes in 3. Pillar Wall

Baked Goods T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parallel Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resting Bitch Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 794 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Parallel Universe is a superb thin crack and face climbing pitch with techy stemming that climbs like a Waterfall route. The stone is solid and the air is clean.

On the east side (climber’s left) of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 80’ to a good sloping ledge with a vertically staggered two bolt belay. There is an anti zipper bolt low on the pitch.

From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seem, and then move past several boulder problems, and a final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past block, and into finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.

Location

Far climber's left of the Pillar Wall

Protection

Single set from #0 TCU through #.5 Camalot. Small/medium wires. Draws, long draws.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
A tad reachy if you are 5'6" but fun. you can wander a bit right or go straight up to one of the bolts. I wandered right then back as JMo did. He later TR'd it straight up to the bolt and said it was really good too. Sep 28, 2015

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