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Routes in Pillar Wall

Parallel Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resting Bitch Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 696 total, 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

P-Uni is a superb face climbing pitch on the east side of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 65' to a good sloping ledge, fixed belay.

From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seem, and then move past several boulder problems, and final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past hollow block, and into finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.

Location

Far climber's left of the Pillar Wall

Protection

Single set from #0 TCU through #.5 Camalot. Small/medium wires. Draws, long draws.
A tad reachy if you are 5'6" but fun. you can wander a bit right or go straight up to one of the bolts. I wandered right then back as JMo did. He later TR'd it straight up to the bolt and said it was really good too. Sep 28, 2015