Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 2,193 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Parallel Universe is a superb thin crack and face climbing pitch with techy stemming. The stone is solid, the air is clean, and you might just feel like you’re climbing at The Waterfall.

On the east side (climber’s left) of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 80’ to a good sloping ledge with a vertically staggered two bolt belay. There is an anti zipper bolt low on the pitch.

From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seam, then move past several boulder problems and a final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past block and into a finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.

Location Suggest change

Far climber's left of the Pillar Wall

Protection Suggest change

Single set from #0 TCU through #.5 Camalot. Small/medium wires. Draws, long draws.
Save a # .5 for the top exiting moves.

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