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Routes in East End Wall

Rusted Rapture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daywalker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death Dealer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Experimental Forrest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightwalker T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pack Mentality T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ultraviolet Ammunition T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 1,746 total, 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Rusted Rapture is a stunning pitch. From start to finish this varied line serves up everything from bouldery face climbing to splitter cracks, as well as, the classic roof traverse. Its one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade, but there is not a ton of standard jamming on it. Rap down to suspended boulder at 90', fixed belay.

The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and bouldery, as you follow an arching seam with just enough holds to keep it in the V0 range. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin finger cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks.

Though the roof may look intimidating at first glance, take the time to enjoy it, because the traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9 climbing, and the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.

Location

Far climber's left of the East End Wall.

Protection

Double set from #00TCU through #.75 Camalot, or a triple set to sew it up. A #1 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot (for the very last piece), small/ medium wires. Draws and several long runners.
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
definitely my new favorite 10. just so much fun and it all flows really well Aug 16, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Aye, we did it this morning for our warm up, and I didn't come across any .10+ either. Which almost makes it better... Jun 9, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Felt a touch soft for 10+ but a great pitch nun the less. The end will make you smile! Jun 9, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wonderful route with mix of thoughtful and hero climbing! Jun 7, 2013