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Split Decision

5.9+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 208 votes
FA: Jeremy Frimer, 2011
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Shannon Falls > Shannon Falls Wall
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Description

A fun addition to the crag! Climb the slabby handcrack about 30' to the right of Klahanie for about 60ft before heading up the left arch/seam to new chains up and right of Klahanie.

The seam looks MUCH harder from the ground then it actually is!

Even after a 2 week dry spell in August the hand crack was wet inside, but it is easy (5.7?) so no big deal.

Our 60m made the lower off no problem, but its a LONG 60m. Tie knots in the end.

Location

Immediately right of Klahanie, ending at an anchor up and right of Klahanie's anchor.

Protection

Fingers to tight hand size cams. I placed two pieces between the bolts up top, but they aren't totally neccessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Split Decision Topo
[Hide Photo] Split Decision Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I thought the same thing: it's a rare climb that easier than it looks from below. Good fun. Aug 18, 2011
Micahisaac
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] this goes with 1 blue tcu and 1 orange tcu in lieu of the bolts on the arching crack. Sep 10, 2011
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Guidebook calls this 10a, but I thought it was 9 or 9+. Agree with Micahisaac, not sure why the top is bolted. Jun 15, 2013
[Hide Comment] The bottom crack seems to seep for quite awhile even in dry weather but it is fairly easy to work around. Once you get to the where the climb starts to arch (first bolt) this is no longer an issue.

Surprisingly fun positioning as you work your way through the arch. Makes a good climb to combo with Klahanie Crack or perhaps something climb while you wait for Klahanie Crack. Jun 6, 2016
rohan bk
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Not seepy, but extremely dirty in the crack even a week or two after a solid rain. Aug 1, 2016
Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] good fun, tamer than it appears at first glance Aug 26, 2019
Nolan Slade
Hamilton, ON
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I think the guidebook suggestion of .10a is a bit generous - the difficulty comes from a single finger tips move. That said, it is still a fun climb!

I will say though I find the bolting to be a bit ridiculous. The first bolt, and *maybe* the second seem justified. There is a healthy selection of quality placements throughout the remainder of the climb and I think anybody climbing 9/10a would want to be comfortable with those placements. Nov 1, 2019
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] Nolan...so, did you lead Split Decision totally on gear, or did you clip the bolts? If you're going to maline the bolts and how Split Decision was put up, show us a better style and lead it sans bolts, plain and simple. Apr 5, 2020
Jay Fried
Berkeley, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Super fun slab moves. Sep 9, 2022
Daniel Heins
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Inclined to agree with the others that it seemed odd that the end was full of bolts. I could see what Nolan is saying about the first bolt and maybe the second to make it as straightforward as possible, but three and four are right by very solid and easy placements.

I think it's fair to critique unnecessary bolting of cracks to discourage it in the future (and for what it's worth I did skip the third and fourth bolt and placed cams instead). Still a fun climb, if a bit confusing in the choices made re: bolting. Aug 14, 2023
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Gear beta: Save a #0.5 for just above the first bolt, it gives you the confidence to pull the crux move before the second bolt. Otherwise, the only other gear you need is doubles #0.75-1 size cams for the lower portion before the first bolt, and the remaining 3rd and 4th bolt are all close together and in easier terrain. Sep 4, 2023
Spencer Shields
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] Fun pitch. Great alternative start to Spirit of Squamish if people are on Klahanie. Aug 7, 2024