Index by FA Route
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in The Index
|Index by FA Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mel Griffiths, H.L. McClintock, Frank McClintock. Sept. 1934|
|Page Views:||1,260 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Blank on Aug 12, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFrom the bottom of the tower, climb 7 feet to a ledge that accesses a less than vertical handcrack (5.5, 15 feet, #3 Camalot). Belay off boulders just above the crack. Hop 50 feet around the base of the first tower and either rappel or downclimb (5.2, 30 feet) a gully to the east between towers 1 and 2. Set up a belay with medium stoppers. Climb easy fingers to hands to blocks to top of second tower (5.6, 60 feet) and belay off a slung boulder with a relic piton. Rappel to saddle between tower 2 and Index off a slung block (30 feet). The first 25 feet of Index are about 5.6ish and easy to protect. Enter a small alcove and contemplate the the 25 feet of 5.9ish vertical #5+ Camalot OW above. Climb it to the fantastic and elusive summit. The rock is perfect.
Two pitons off the backside act as summit anchors or you could easily sling one of the summit boulders. Do a single rappel off the backside pitons to the saddle. Another rappel from the saddle off pitons to a large grassy ledge on the west side. A final rappel off a sturdy rock pinch will get you back to your packs.
ProtectionA single set of Camalots #0.3-#3.
1-3 #5 Camalots for the upper OW.
1 set of Gear4Rocks plastic stoppers.
.380 Kel Tec?
Bigbro's work for the OW, but stick with #2s and 3s. #4s do not fit and are useless. We used a 100 foot Mammut Serenity and a 100 foot tag line for rappels. All green webbing is new as of 8/11.