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Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face)

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: (Possible First Ascent?) Wesley Ashwood, Nic Harnish, Kealsea Sheely, August 2011
Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > Grenadiers > Guardian

Description

This is a wonderful, sustained route with mostly quality rock on the NE Face of The Guardian in the Weminuche Wilderness. It has 8 pitches of corners and cracks with occasional broken sections and about 500-600 feet of simul-climbing on the final ridge section.

Descend off the South aspect of the mountain. Depending on where you camp, this can make for a long day (for us it was a 19 hour round trip camp-to-camp).

Location

This is on the eastern-most mountain in the East Grenadiers. Read the area page for The Guardian for details on how to get there.

Protection

There is no fixed gear on this mostly well-protected route. Some belays are marginal. Bring a double set of cams from 0.5 to 3.5 and a set of nuts and an extra set of TCUs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top of pitch six?
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch six?
The end of the technical climbing, beginning of the simul-climbing.
[Hide Photo] The end of the technical climbing, beginning of the simul-climbing.
End of pitch five?
[Hide Photo] End of pitch five?
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Top of pitch one.
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch one.
Beginning of pitch two. Eventually you move left into the adjacent corner via a small ledge (unavoidable rope drag).
[Hide Photo] Beginning of pitch two. Eventually you move left into the adjacent corner via a small ledge (unavoidable rope drag).
Top of pitch one.
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch one.
Very beginning of the route.
[Hide Photo] Very beginning of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] Well done, lads! Aug 13, 2011
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Make sure to get up and climbing early, 'cause the walk around from the South side is a long one! Aug 13, 2011
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Next stop, the Silex. Aug 14, 2011
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
[Hide Comment] I flaked on writing anything up about this! Fun route. After the first 2 or 3 pitches in the obvious dihedral just above the toe of the dihedral, you can pretty much go anywhere and the grade will be the same. Easy climbing with a few short steps up to 5.9. Mostly quality rock, but there are some widow makers in there, so be careful. Sep 30, 2011
Jon Rezabek
[Hide Comment] Good to see this put up. I'm glad the weather held out for you.
Nice alliteration too, Nic, you're so clever. Feb 22, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
[Hide Comment] What makes you so sure this is an FA? It's an obvious weakness up the face.... Aug 7, 2012
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] It's certainly possible this is not a FA and, I must admit, probable that it at least criss crosses existing ones. I did as much research as I could to find existing routes and found nothing, but given the prominence of the face over the well traveled Vallecito Trail, I do find it hard to believe that there are no routes on the face. I have heard of winter ascents up the major cleft on the west face. If this is not a FA, then I would be more than happy to remove it as one. I would actually enjoy hearing from someone else that has done it. Aug 7, 2012
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] I know Mike Vanderbeek, on one of our thirty-days, soloed something up this face. Aug 8, 2012
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I thinks it's best that I list this as a possible FA. I agree there's too much speculation and doubt and it's hasty of me to assume otherwise. Any info regarding any activity on this face would be welcome as it's hard to find anywhere else. Aug 8, 2012