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Routes in The Guardian

A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serpentine Son Rise (AKA The Sunrise) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Theory of the Leisure Class T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: (Possible First Ascent?) Wesley Ashwood, Nic Harnish, Kealsea Sheely, August 2011
Page Views: 2,533 total · 29/month
Shared By: Nic Harnish on Aug 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a wonderful, sustained route with mostly quality rock on the NE Face of The Guardian in the Weminuche Wilderness. It has 8 pitches of corners and cracks with occasional broken sections and about 500-600 feet of simul-climbing on the final ridge section.

Descend off the South aspect of the mountain. Depending on where you camp, this can make for a long day (for us it was a 19 hour round trip camp-to-camp).


This is on the eastern-most mountain in the East Grenadiers. Read the area page for The Guardian for details on how to get there.


There is no fixed gear on this mostly well-protected route. Some belays are marginal. Bring a double set of cams from 0.5 to 3.5 and a set of nuts and an extra set of TCUs.
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Well done, lads! Aug 13, 2011
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
Make sure to get up and climbing early, 'cause the walk around from the South side is a long one! Aug 13, 2011
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
Nic Harnish   Durango, CO
Next stop, the Silex. Aug 14, 2011
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
I flaked on writing anything up about this! Fun route. After the first 2 or 3 pitches in the obvious dihedral just above the toe of the dihedral, you can pretty much go anywhere and the grade will be the same. Easy climbing with a few short steps up to 5.9. Mostly quality rock, but there are some widow makers in there, so be careful. Sep 30, 2011
Good to see this put up. I'm glad the weather held out for you.
Nice alliteration too, Nic, you're so clever. Feb 22, 2012
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
What makes you so sure this is an FA? It's an obvious weakness up the face.... Aug 7, 2012
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
Nic Harnish   Durango, CO
It's certainly possible this is not a FA and, I must admit, probable that it at least criss crosses existing ones. I did as much research as I could to find existing routes and found nothing, but given the prominence of the face over the well traveled Vallecito Trail, I do find it hard to believe that there are no routes on the face. I have heard of winter ascents up the major cleft on the west face. If this is not a FA, then I would be more than happy to remove it as one. I would actually enjoy hearing from someone else that has done it. Aug 7, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
I know Mike Vanderbeek, on one of our thirty-days, soloed something up this face. Aug 8, 2012
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
Nic Harnish   Durango, CO
I thinks it's best that I list this as a possible FA. I agree there's too much speculation and doubt and it's hasty of me to assume otherwise. Any info regarding any activity on this face would be welcome as it's hard to find anywhere else. Aug 8, 2012

More About Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face)