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Chicken Fingers

5.12- PG13, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: A couple dudes with a drill
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 1st Meat Wall
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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A thin start into an awkward mantle with not so great pro. Traverse to obvious tips/finger crack. Follow crack up and around a corner, through a little choss and finish off with beautiful fingers.

Location

To the right of short loin 100 yards

Protection

lots of tips through .5 camalots, one #3.5 camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thad gettin' rad
[Hide Photo] Thad gettin' rad
Chicken Fingers
[Hide Photo] Chicken Fingers
Above the choss
[Hide Photo] Above the choss
Chicken Fingers
[Hide Photo] Chicken Fingers

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason S.
Durango, Co
  5.12- PG13
[Hide Comment] The "choss" isn't much more than a body length of a softer flake that is firmly wedged into the crack, nothing loose. The offset tips splitter start is maybe v3ish and a bit spicy as it begins about 15 feet off the deck on blocks, with a black alien or .1 camalot jr. for pro. Ballnuts are also handy. With the exception of the start, this may be a bit soft @ 12-, with nothing harder than 11 after the first 20 feet. Fun route! Aug 12, 2011
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] It is confirmed that the pro in the bottom section is a bit sketch. Black alien popped out as Philly, the belayer, was lowering himself down off the boulder -- he almost took Ritchie with him as he fell. Luckily no one got hurt. Ritchie, knowing he couldn't fall safely, proceeded to send the route. Good work buddy. Apr 2, 2013