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Routes in Murphy Creek

Frogger T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gortlough RA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Lips TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock Tight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lock, Stock, and Barrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mandric- direct start T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pac Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguin Cafe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whips & Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
X- Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Fry & Bird Lew? 1985?
Page Views: 547 total, 7/month
Shared By: Karl K on Aug 11, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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stream crossing Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


Clean, left-leaning dihedral. Direct start (11b) goes up corner on right through a wide section with poor feet and joins the regular route at white ramp. Continue up corner (10c)


about 20' left of Penguin Cafe (obvious splitter handcrack)


Cold shut & bolt with link at top


aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
The crux for me was pulling the bulge/roof (which I guess is only 10c according to the book). It protects with a #4. You could use a #3 to protect it about a foot higher, but you'll be blocking your hands from a much needed jam. Really safe lead. Jul 18, 2016