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> Forbidden Peak
East Ridge Direct
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 73 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | 1958 Fred Beckey, Joe Hieb, Ed Cooper, and Don Claunch |
Page Views: | 15,289 total · 99/month |
Shared By: | Adrian Lazar on Aug 11, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).
From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.
From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).
The great rock provides awesome holds.
Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.
From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.
From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).
The great rock provides awesome holds.
Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.
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