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Routes in Candlelight Buttress

Big Blue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chicken Pot Pie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Responder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For Whom The Road Tolls S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jonny Cash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Inaction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Cramps T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One That Got Away, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinky The Strap-on S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheltering Sky T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk the Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: S. Cox and T. Mayr, September 2003
Page Views: 1,011 total, 13/month
Shared By: Choncho on Aug 10, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

Start on the far right side of the big ledge at the base of Candlelight. Have the belayer clip an anchor bolt for Bobo's. Leave yourself (the belayer) about 10ft of slack so you can see your climber.
Climb out right off the big ledge over a small mogul and clip a bolt, up and right again, then straight up (5-6 more bolts) to an anchor. A great pitch.
Second pitch is not bad, but pretty easy at about 5.7 (5-6 bolts). It is possible to do another pitch and top out (no bolts).
This route was established Sept 12, 2003 - the day Johnny Cash died.

Protection

bolts

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Choncho
 
Choncho  
 
The face plant could be avoided by not letting the climber clip the belay. The first bolts are somewhat up and out off the belay, so the belayer should only get lifted and not face planted if the climber falls. But you're right, normally it is best for the belayer to stay tight and into the rock and not 10ft out. Aug 9, 2015
Jeremy in Inyokern
Inyokern
  5.9+
Jeremy in Inyokern   Inyokern
  5.9+
Fun route. First pitch feels exposed and committing right off the ledge. I don't understand why there is a bolt way out right almost level with the belay. I ignored this and just went up the "mogul" as suggested by the description and used an alpine runner to extend the clip, keeping the rope more in line with the rest of the bolts. Also I disagree with having the belay at the bottom be extended by many feet, as suggested above, to enable line of sight to the climber. If the leader took a fall the belayer would be pulled forward toward the belay and risk a face plant.

5.9 feels consistent with other climbs in the portal for the first pitch and the second pitch is much easier. Al in all, a fun two pitch climb, though I suspect it could be done as one pitch with a 70M rope. Jun 1, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
This climb can be extended by climbing the last 2 pitches of Bobo's Bonanza. These pitches wander up and left on mostly 5.5ish terrain with some climbing up to 5.7. The climbing is runout with 2 (old) bolts per pitch. It's worth it if you want some extra mileage and if you like playing "where's the next bolt?" in a sea of knobs.

To descend, rappel Shining (11d) with one 60m rope. Aug 27, 2011