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Routes in Parking Lot Wall

Bolts To Nowhere T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Common Ground T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dudley Do Right T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hangovers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leftovers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Kids on the Rock T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Quilter Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rt 166 T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Swiss Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin For 5.10 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tigers Milk T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Virgin Dance of the Twin Chain Saws T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wally-Babba S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 115 total, 2/month
Shared By: 54321 on Aug 9, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Line starts 20 feet left of Bolts to Nowhere. The line starts going right, then turns left, and then staright up to slings below roof. An old guidebook says to go to Blts to Nowhere anchors, but it is more direct to just go staright up to the slings.

Location

A 70 meter rope will get you to the ledge/flake below olts to Nowhere. If you have a 60 it might be a good idea to tag another line.

Protection

bolts and small gear

Photos

- No Photos -
YES,THE OLD GUIDE IS INCORRECT:AFTER THE 6TH ?BOLT CLIMB PAST TWO RUNOUT BOLTS,STRAIGHT UP TO ANCHOR AT ROOF.PORCELLA CLIMBED UP AND LEFT TOCORNER,NEEDS TO CONTINUE.UPPER BOLTS ARE WORST ROUTE IN THE ROOT,JON TURK +?.A LOWER BOLT IS STILL IN THE FLAKE THAT PEELED OFF THE WALL;WHY ANDROID AND I DID THE NEW START!!! Jan 23, 2017