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Routes in Chester Rock

Duct Tape and Candy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Forfeit the Bail S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: John Cardmon, July 2007
Page Views: 745 total · 9/month
Shared By: steple on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route features thin crimping and technical moves. It is sustained, although it gets slightly easier the higher you get. The rock quality could be better and some holds might change their shape if this route sees more traffic.

Clip the first bolt from the big undercling, before you actually get on the wall. Getting situated on the wall is probably the crux. The holds are small and sharp. Once on the wall, get the second clip and pick the right sequence to get to slightly easier terrain about half way up the wall. To pass the third and fourth bolt good reach and high stepping are helpful.

Location

This route is on the east face of Chester Rock. When approaching from the east, Chester Rock is hidden behind Roses are Red Crag.

Protection

4 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

dino74
Oceanside, CA
  5.11b
dino74   Oceanside, CA
  5.11b
Felt like the crux was getting off the ground. Be careful at when clipping at the second clip, some of the pieces felt hollow. Jun 12, 2017
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Fun climb. Definitely worth a go when in the garden. Nov 16, 2011