Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: N. Beidleman, 2001
Page Views: 299 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

From the guide: "Start left of Crystal Grip, in the corner. Pass an old piton, then branch left out obvious crack system. Turn the corner, then pass straight up the headwall. The top is protected with small cams."

This route has fun moves from the ground all the way through turning the corner. The headwall above this is the crux; nest a couple of cams in the vertical crack down low and run it out a bit with one more small cam right before the crux moves.

There is no bolt anchor at the top and not many options to build a gear anchor. Belay at the big tree about 30 feet back from the cliff that has 2 old slings on it. If you rap down from this tree, you need a 70m rope to reach the ground. Otherwise, move over to the Crystal Grip anchor and rap from there with a 60m.

Location

Walk up from the road to the start of Crystal Grip. The corner to the left is the start; look for piton about 15 feet up.

Protection

Standard rack; small cams for the top headwall; 1 (very old) piton at start.

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