Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Megatherion

5.11b, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 126 votes
FA: Leland Windham (1992)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32; Little Si > World Wall Group > World Wall

Description

Juggy 5.10 climbing up big sharp flakes leads to the business - a tough, reachy undercling move to the "horn of plenty," setting you up for the crux. Pull a few barn-door moves on odd holds past the horn to a jug, then try not to blow it on the sandpaper vertical finish in a small dihedral.

Location

On the left end of World Wall, left of the Slug Lover dihedral. Just left of Sweet Tooth.

Protection

12 bolts and anchor, all fully equipped with steel draws. A further three bolts leads past the first anchor on some dirty 10- climbing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's not over once you pull the horn, slab moves at the top are fun an engaging
[Hide Photo] It's not over once you pull the horn, slab moves at the top are fun an engaging
Enjoying the horn of plenty
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the horn of plenty
Andrew Fabian making the clip before pulling into the horn. If you clip this and jog back to come into the horn from climber left be careful to keep the rope in front of your feet.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Fabian making the clip before pulling into the horn. If you clip this and jog back to come into the horn from climber left be careful to keep the rope in front of your feet.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

gregman
 
[Hide Comment] Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a follower. Sep 4, 2015
Eric Stern
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] It is 12 to the first anchor, 15, all the way to the top I believe. Sep 14, 2015
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I felt like coming to the horn from the left with high feet was much easier than thru the undercling. Sep 10, 2017
Nick Drake
Kent, WA
 
[Hide Comment] New stainless bolts to the commonly climbed first anchor placed fall of 17.
Equipped with steel draws August 18.

Really fun route, boulder sequence to the horn is rad and stays interesting afterward. Nice to get some footwork and smearing on the finish (the rock over here actually has friction!). Probably a better intro to the grade than psycho or abo as there are no hard moves low on the route. Nice clean falls. Aug 20, 2018
Chris Stocking
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] The hardware above the first set of chains on this thing is starting to look pretty suspect. (The rock is also covered in lichen/vegatation. It's obvious not a lot of people wander up there, and for good reason. Nothing too memorable beyond the first anchors.) Apr 18, 2021
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The crux sequence is awesome. The rest of the climbing is lackluster, but keeps you on your toes. Aug 9, 2021