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Routes in Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)

Baby Steps S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kids and Old Guys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off The Grid T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Finger or Two S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pig Pen T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Puzzle, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleeping Princess T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smart Grid S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Alex Howden
Page Views: 410 total, 5/month
Shared By: Marco on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb the technical slab from left to right to join up with Pig Pen. Climb Pig Pen to a good ledge where you traverse right and finish with the crux of Sleeping Princess.


There is a blind placement made from the ledge into the Sleeping Princess crack.

Location

See Sleeping Princess.

Protection

Gear up to 3". A really good spot for the slab portion, and I would recommend using the tree to anchor the belayer.

Photos

Dru
Dru  
Both exits have been done at the top. FA is not noted but it was probably either Alex H. or Darren Jensen. I get the feeling Alex thought it was a pretty minor variation. I remember it being pretty tricky once you leave that narrow starting feature behind though! Aug 8, 2011
Marco
 
Marco  
 
Hey Peter, I don't climb on rope much so I was just making a guess as to the grade. The first 15' are very balancy, as Dru mentioned, and it was a very hot day.

Hey Dru, does The Puzzle traverse into Sleeping Princess? If so could I get the name of the climber who did the FA. Aug 8, 2011
Dru
Dru  
Not a FA Marco, this route is in the old guidebook as a variation to Pig Pen:

"Var: The Puzzle. Start 3m left of crack (great balance moves) then move towards Pig Pen." Aug 8, 2011
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Marco, did you mean to enter 5.10b? Given how hard you climb, it's hard to imagine you taking four falls and not being able to confirm the grade if it's 10b.

I hope you recover quickly. Aug 8, 2011
Marco
 
Marco  
 
I took 4 big falls onto the deck just before reaching the crack. If it wasn't for my belayer's spot I would have gone another 30' onto the trail below. I would recommend using a crash pad, I didn't, and now I can barely walk.

Not sure if I actually did the FA, but if not please inform me and I will change the info. Aug 8, 2011