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Routes in Northwest Face

Black Sheep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fisherman's Elbow S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twice As Nice S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: EFR (1st pitch), Geir, Marcy, and Pippie (2nd pitch)
Page Views: 600 total · 7/month
Shared By: Geir on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Two pitch climb on the west face of the Fortress.

1) Climb up a short section clean rock that arches to the right. Continue up the knobby slab with two bolts. Belay at a bolted anchor about 5 feet left of the prominent black water streak. 5.8 PG13, 100'. (Marcy and I learned that EFR had previously soloed this pitch and he was fine with leaving the fixed hardware we placed.)

2) Climb up the left side of the water streak. The gear is a bit tricky in places. At the top of the water streak bear right to a ledge and belay on gear. Make sure to wait until the streak has dried if there has been recent rain. 5.10, 100'.

Scramble up toward a dead tree to a large ledge (4th class) and finish on the final pitch of Fisherman's Elbow.

Location

The climb is on the west face of the Fortress. From the approach trail head downhill along the right side of the Fortress. Locate the large black water streak on the right side of the west face. The first pitch begins below the streak.

Protection

Stoppers, singles to 4", doubles of medium cams.

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