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Routes in The Watchtower

Highway Robbery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watchtower Corner, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
West Face AKA Cold Feelings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Claire Carren & George Brasieck, 7/22/77, pitch 1: John Auld, EVD, 2009, pitch 2/3: Todd Bol, EVD, 2011?
Page Views: 911 total, 12/month
Shared By: tbol on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is one of only two on the West face. Dan Hare confirmed that (from Gillett's book there was some speculation) the upper corner has been climbed at 5.10+

P1: 5.6, head straight up cracks and jugs for 60 feet to fixed pro. It is surprisingly exposed.

P2: 5.6, head straight up the same crack system with a little laybacking. Step onto the slab and follow a thinnish crack directly through a small bulge staying left of a prominent tree. Then gain a ledge with fixed pro. 80 feet.

P3: 5.7, head left from the belay to gain the prominent crack system. Follow this until it begins to arc right and peters out. Here, step left and gain another thin crack below a small tree. Follow this crack to a ledge below the upper most headwall and take a broken, right-facing corner to the top. Now you are on the summit of The Watchtower. Walk off to the east. You may have Cold Feelings on this route if 5.7 is your limit. 130 feet.

Location

This is the furthest right climb on the wall.

Protection

Take RPs and small cams and maybe doubles up to #1 Camalot.

Photos

In '77, Claire and I did all three pitches, topped out, and walked off of the top. This was long before the house was built. The pic shows me leading only low on the route, because, I assume, the tourist/photographer didn't want to watch for hours. I had wanted to lead the clean, right-leaning dihedral near the top, but it seemed too hard to reach (based on what we could see once we were high on the route), so we topped out to its left, where the CF route line goes. Jan 9, 2015
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
 
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
 
Climbed this today lured in by the moderate appearance of the first pitch. Combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m. Stepped up and right rather than traversing left from belay bolt atop pitch two following a series of flakes to just below the mini roof visible in beta photo directly above marked bolt. We stepped left around roof. Airy and exposed with good gear after most of the unnerving high-steps. Maintains 5.7R rating. Jul 7, 2014
tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
George, thanks for the beta. We figured someone had to have climbed this side of the crag at some point. You could wander all over the face doing many variations, all about 5.7 I think. Pretty fun! Post that picture if you can find it. Aug 23, 2012
On 7/22/77, I led Claire Carren up the rounded buttress pictured above. At times, we might have been more to the left of the pictured line, but that's hard to say without looking closely at the rock again, not that it's important. In any case, our finish was the same as the pictured line. I wrote down 5.7 for a rating. Used only wedges, hexes, and slings. A tourist sent me a poor-quality print of us on the climb. Maybe I can find it. Jun 29, 2012