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Routes in The Waltz Formation

Bohemian Flares T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Funky Dynamics T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I am a Wicked Child (2nd pitch) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Paso Doble T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Schuhplattler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slam Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Hot to Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waltz, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jim Humphries, Mindy Shulak, late 70s
Page Views: 114 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Really fun, varied climbing. Stemming and liebacking up a low-angle dihedral leads to an awesome overhanging fingers/face climbing finish atypical of the Gally. Seems to have cleaned up nicely. Known as "Jimbo's" in the Vassilopoulos guidebook.

Location

Right side of the south face of the Waltz's first tier. Obvious left-facing dihedral.

Protection

A good range of cams and stoppers from fingers to hands, mostly fingers. Two bolt chain anchor on top of the pitch. A 70 works best for lowering/TRing, but a 60 could probably work with some minor trickery.

Photos

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It's possible to escape on ledges to the right and avoid any 5.10, it's much better to continue upwards past the bolt to the chains. Jun 13, 2017

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