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Last of the Wild Ones Variation
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 44
votes
Routes in Practice Rock
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5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Aid Seam T C3 |
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Babies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beginners Lead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bird Woman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cardiac Arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cardiac Bypass T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fiver, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jerry's Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jerry's Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Last of the Wild Ones T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Last of the Wild Ones Variation T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pinnacle Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pinnacle Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rosebush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roy's Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Silent Rock T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slanting Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spiral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swenson's Theoradical T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tangentially T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Theoretically T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tough Trip Through Paradise T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wizards Well T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,762 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Minton on Aug 7, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Begin this route by ascending on small holds past bolts on the face before a small traversing move onto a big, flat hold on the arete. Continue moving up the arete with big moves past another bolt, then back onto the face where the difficulty eases and a small crack system is encountered. Climb this crack/face on small to medium gear, exiting with a thoughtful move onto the ledge above, where it shares anchors with Theoretically.
Please note: this is the lower, moderate half of the Last of the Wild Ones. The full pitch continues around to the right of the Theoretically ledge and up steepening terrain past more bolts with difficult, powerful moves, trending back left to the top of the prow above the ledge. The route in it's entirety receives a rating in the 12b/c category.
It is also an option to continue up the final corner of "Tough Trip Through Paradise" as an addition to the lower half of the pitch. This would register the pitch at mid-range 5.11.
Please note: this is the lower, moderate half of the Last of the Wild Ones. The full pitch continues around to the right of the Theoretically ledge and up steepening terrain past more bolts with difficult, powerful moves, trending back left to the top of the prow above the ledge. The route in it's entirety receives a rating in the 12b/c category.
It is also an option to continue up the final corner of "Tough Trip Through Paradise" as an addition to the lower half of the pitch. This would register the pitch at mid-range 5.11.
Protection
Quickdraws for bolts, small to medium gear for the last half of the route. The end of this pitch may feel a tad runout, but some thoughtful cam placements can deliver some added safety.
If continuing up for the full pitch, bring more quickdraws for bolts. Combining the lower section with the upper portion of "Tough Trip" necessitates another draw for the pin and some small to medium nuts and cams.
If continuing up for the full pitch, bring more quickdraws for bolts. Combining the lower section with the upper portion of "Tough Trip" necessitates another draw for the pin and some small to medium nuts and cams.
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