Last of the Wild Ones Variation
Avg: 3.1 from 20 votes
Routes in Practice Rock
|5.6 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bird Woman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Blind Black Babies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cardiac Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Cardiac Bypass T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jerry's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jerry's Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Last of the Wild Ones Variation T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pinnacle Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pinnacle Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Rosebush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Silent Rock T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Slanting Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spiral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Strawberry Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Theoretically T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Tough Trip Through Paradise T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Unknown Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wizards Well T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||1,038 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Minton on Aug 7, 2011|
DescriptionBegin this route by ascending on small holds past bolts on the face before a small traversing move onto a big, flat hold on the arete. Continue moving up the arete with big moves past another bolt, then back onto the face where the difficulty eases and a small crack system is encountered. Climb this crack/face on small to medium gear, exiting with a thoughtful move onto the ledge above, where it shares anchors with Theoretically.
Please note: this is the lower, moderate half of the Last of the Wild Ones. The full pitch continues around to the right of the Theoretically ledge and up steepening terrain past more bolts with difficult, powerful moves, trending back left to the top of the prow above the ledge. The route in it's entirety receives a rating in the 12b/c category.
It is also an option to continue up the final corner of "Tough Trip Through Paradise" as an addition to the lower half of the pitch. This would register the pitch at mid-range 5.11.
ProtectionQuickdraws for bolts, small to medium gear for the last half of the route. The end of this pitch may feel a tad runout, but some thoughtful cam placements can deliver some added safety.
If continuing up for the full pitch, bring more quickdraws for bolts. Combining the lower section with the upper portion of "Tough Trip" necessitates another draw for the pin and some small to medium nuts and cams.
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