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Routes in Practice Rock

5.6 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bird Woman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blind Black Babies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardiac Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cardiac Bypass T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jerry's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jerry's Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last of the Wild Ones Variation T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinnacle Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinnacle Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rosebush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silent Rock T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slanting Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strawberry Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Theoretically T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Trip Through Paradise T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizards Well T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: FA: Jerry Kanzler, 1968 FFA:Bill Dockins 1982
Page Views: 1,688 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ryan Minton on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

Great rock, engaging movement, and good protection all combine to make this yet another classic Practice Rock outing. The route shares the start with Last of the Wild Ones. Begin here (Just around the corner from the start of Theoretically) and ascend upwards for roughly 15 feet, clipping a bolt before coming head level with a rightward traversing rail. A bolt above the rail protects this first crux. Pay attention to your feet as you move past this traverse and gain a seam, then continue upward on good crimps, past three bolts, to a good rest and lower angle crack system halfway up the wall. The bolts disappear here, but now you've got good gear. Climb through the steepening cracks, trending towards a steep, shallow, left facing corner system. Gain this corner and power through past a fixed pin (the second crux) to its top, with a stinger exit move. Above the corner you'll find a good stance with bolted anchors.

Location

This route is located on the prominent west facing wall on the northern end of the crag. It begins around the corner from Theoretically and center punches the face up through the overhanging headwall.

Protection

6 draws for bolts and the pin. Gear above the bolted section consists of small to medium stoppers and cams, up to a #2 Camalot can be used. Small stoppers, TCUs, and a .75 Camalot are useful in the upper corner. A 60m rope will work for this route, but be vigilant when lowering or rappelling, as it is a full 30m pitch!

Photos

Took a nice whip on the fixed pin after falling going for the top out on my first go. Seems to still be pretty solid. Great route. Oct 26, 2017
Kirkwood Donavin
Colorado
 
Kirkwood Donavin   Colorado
 
This route is really closer to 95'. My 60 meter rope touched down 2 to 3 feet on either end while top roping Tough Trip. Nov 1, 2016
Pat Dyess
Bozeman, MT
Pat Dyess   Bozeman, MT
A fun little variation heads up the face to the right of the finishing corner. Rig a nest of a stoppers before you bust the moves, as any airtime will be huge. Probably bumps it up a letter grade or two.
Side note: It's easy to T.R. the variation too with a BD 0.5 (I think) over the lip. Jul 15, 2013