Tough Trip Through Paradise
Avg: 3.9 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||FA: Jerry Kanzler, 1968 FFA:Bill Dockins 1982|
|Page Views:||1,766 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Minton on Aug 7, 2011|
Great rock, engaging movement, and good protection all combine to make this yet another classic Practice Rock outing. The route shares the start with Last of the Wild Ones. Begin here (Just around the corner from the start of Theoretically) and ascend upwards for roughly 15 feet, clipping a bolt before coming head level with a rightward traversing rail. A bolt above the rail protects this first crux. Pay attention to your feet as you move past this traverse and gain a seam, then continue upward on good crimps, past three bolts, to a good rest and lower angle crack system halfway up the wall. The bolts disappear here, but now you've got good gear. Climb through the steepening cracks, trending towards a steep, shallow, left facing corner system. Gain this corner and power through past a fixed pin (the second crux) to its top, with a stinger exit move. Above the corner you'll find a good stance with bolted anchors.
This route is located on the prominent west facing wall on the northern end of the crag. It begins around the corner from Theoretically and center punches the face up through the overhanging headwall.
6 draws for bolts and the pin. Gear above the bolted section consists of small to medium stoppers and cams, up to a #2 Camalot can be used. Small stoppers, TCUs, and a .75 Camalot are useful in the upper corner. A 60m rope will work for this route, but be vigilant when lowering or rappelling, as it is a full 30m pitch!