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Routes in Air Spire

Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Branden Michelkamp
Page Views: 176 total · 2/month
Shared By: Branden Michelkamp on Aug 6, 2011
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Follow the thin crack to the right of the Chucklehead/Phallus (P2) on the direct face follow up the crack until it runs out(crux). Good pro for the crux but runout after, until the big ledge. Next, continue up the face as it becomes slightly overhanging on jugs (Large Flakes) to the chains up top. Should be pretty solid at 5.9 for the the runouts I found little adequate pro but the climb is all there.

Also be weary of the thin suspect flakes on the upper part.

Location

Do the first pitch of either Phallus or Chucklehead one can either climb the 5.7 chimney then clip draws to the anchor and TR. Or Lead from the anchor at the top of Phallus/Chucklehead. And follow the thin crack to the right of the large chimney.

Protection

Anchors at top, Standard rack will do, small wires will do ya for the crux. No bolts.

Photos

Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.10c
If this route has been done before please let me know. The last thing I want to do is steel someones lightning! Aug 7, 2011
Is there a pic you can draw the line on? I can't quite picture this. Aug 7, 2011
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Let me know if those help it basically follows the direct face to the right of the chimney starting in the thin crack. Aug 7, 2011
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Basically climb the face you Rap down. Aug 7, 2011
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
So by your description, this route starts on pitch 2 by the chained anchors and the large chimney. Then you climb on the face right of the chimney in a thin crack? Is that right? If so, this pitch probably has not be done before, to my knowledge. Aug 8, 2011
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Yes John that is exactly where the route starts. Just watch for loose rock. Aug 8, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
Nice work. That pitch always looked doable, but the rock quality is definitely suspect in some spots. Aug 8, 2011
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Cool Branden. Nice work. Aug 8, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Tough first moves. Loved the rails toward the top! Sep 9, 2013

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