Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Branden Michelkamp
Page Views: 617 total · 5/month
Shared By: Branden Michelkamp on Aug 6, 2011
Admins: James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the thin crack to the right of the Chucklehead/Phallus (P2) on the direct face follow up the crack until it runs out(crux). Good pro for the crux but runout after, until the big ledge. Next, continue up the face as it becomes slightly overhanging on jugs (Large Flakes) to the chains up top. Should be pretty solid at 5.9 for the the runouts I found little adequate pro but the climb is all there.

Also be weary of the thin suspect flakes on the upper part.

Location

Do the first pitch of either Phallus or Chucklehead one can either climb the 5.7 chimney then clip draws to the anchor and TR. Or Lead from the anchor at the top of Phallus/Chucklehead. And follow the thin crack to the right of the large chimney.

Protection

Anchors at top, Standard rack will do, small wires will do ya for the crux. No bolts.

Photos