All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Bulletheads > Bulletheads, Central
Avg: 3.6 from 91 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Becky in the 60s (P1-P2?), Recleaned 2011|
|Page Views:||5,918 total, 77/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionA great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!
A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.
Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route
Topo on Jeremy Frimer's Site
Topo on Quickdraw Publication's Website
P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.
P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m
P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.
P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.