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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
Page Views: 544 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Ravenclaw begins in the right-facing dihedral immediately to the left of Riding with the Ravens. Climb the dihedral for 20 feet, then step right into a flake (crossing over Riding...). Follow the flake to its end, gain a short crack, and then:

A) Traverse right 15 feet (delicate 5.9+) to the final bolt on Crystal Staircase and continue to its anchors (lower off 50 feet).

B) Continue straight up through the big roof on G3 (5.10+, bolts) and lower off 95 feet.

We did option (A) on the first ascent, before the bolts on G3 had been placed. It may be possible to clip the first of the new bolts on G3 as you make your way to the last bolt on Crystal Staircase. Without that bolt, the traverse gets a little spicy at its end. Now that the bolts on G3 are in, the more logical finish is straight up -- that is, option (B).

Location

Start in the right-facing dihedral just left of Riding with the Ravens, next to two pine trees. See the .

Protection

Wires; small cams to 2", and the last 6 bolts on G3 for option (B).

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