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Routes in West Car Body Canyon

Barry, Barry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolts-n-Burger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circuit Breaker S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Constant Current T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crunchy Frogs T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dawn Patrol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dos Pescadores S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doug Scott Route, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excalibur T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying Circus, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French Fried S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Generic Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lancelot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lizard Breath S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nemesis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ohm's Law T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pabst Smear T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pictures of Lily S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Row Your Boat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stretch Armstrong S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Throb, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thursday Knights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Velcro Fly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watts Up? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bruce Bedell - 1989
Page Views: 420 total, 5/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Weird thought-provoking moves. It's all there but not exactly obvious (at least to me). Greasy on a hot day. This climb is a bit spicy due to interesting bolt placement that puts you in ledge-fall territory near the second AND third bolts.

Location

Just left of the excellent climb Barry, Barry.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bolt one is low (basically pointless except to keep you from bouncing off the ledge), and there is a bit of a runout to bolt 3. You may want to supplement the bolts with a set of nuts or small cams since it looked like this climb would protect well with gear. Apparently the route was originally done without the bolts...

Photos

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Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Hey, how about including some action photos? Aug 28, 2011