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4th of July Couloir

Easy 5th Steep Snow PG13, Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III,  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Southwest Region > Big Sky Area > Beehive Basin > Beehive Peak

Description

This is the southwest couloir. From Beehive Peak follow a faint trail toward the southeast face. Climb through boulders and/or snow(depending on the time of year)toward the left side of the main wall where there is an wide couloir going straight up. The couloir melts out late, we did it early August and it still had plenty of snow, but on low snow years it would melt out earlier. You will need crampons if there is snow, and an ice axe is recommended. Climb up the couloir toward the obvious notch. Just below the notch there is a big V-shaped chimney heading up to the right. You can rope up here or climb slowly, it is easy 5th class. From the top of the chimney there is another couple hundred feet of 4th class scrambling to the summit.

Descent is possible via either of the two couloir that flank the south east face. There are rappel slings at both, but it is possible without ropes.

Protection

Light rack, crampons, ice axe. Rope if wanting to rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kurt Prond atop one of the spires near the summit. Photo courtesy of Matt Tyers.
[Hide Photo] Kurt Prond atop one of the spires near the summit. Photo courtesy of Matt Tyers.
Matt Tyers ascending the southwest couloir
[Hide Photo] Matt Tyers ascending the southwest couloir
route
[Hide Photo] route
Kurt Prond in the couloir
[Hide Photo] Kurt Prond in the couloir

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

sqwirll
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] It should be noted that if you continue from the notch to the couloir around the back, it's only 4th class to the top. Also, it's Beehive Peak. Aug 3, 2011
Ty Gittins
bozeman
[Hide Comment] I believe this one is called the 4th of july couloir Aug 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] aka West Ridge. Easy 5th or Class 4, either way it isn't very exposed and is brief. Total scrambling from the saddle is about 200', less than half of that Class 4 unless you choose to make it harder. Did car to car in under 5hrs without trying hard. Sep 8, 2022