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Sweeping Beauty

5.10b, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3 from 92 votes
FA: FFA September 2005 Kevin Evanson, Jaime Bohle
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Ozone > (4) Gold Wall

Description

This route starts left of Carrots for Everyone to the right of a large block that is about 25' off the ground (the top of this block is the 'Room for a View' ledge). The section up to the ledge is a bit blocky and dirty but pretty easy terrain. Above the ledge it takes the line of bolts on a slightly overhanging face for an additional 60 feet to a pair of bolted anchors. This section is consistent, pumpy and some of the best 5.10 climbing at Ozone, IMO.

Location

See Above

Protection

10 bolts + perma draw anchor . There is a long run-out in 5.easy terrain above the first bolt, which can optionally be protected with 1 or 2 #3 cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The money is in the slightly overhung zig zag crack above the ledge
[Hide Photo] The money is in the slightly overhung zig zag crack above the ledge
Jaime Bohle on Sweeping Beauty
[Hide Photo] Jaime Bohle on Sweeping Beauty

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C h a d
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] One can connect the first half of Dirty Jugs with Sweeping Beauty, making a fully bolted route. Like many of the climbs at Ozone, a 50m rope will not get you to the ground.

Chad Aug 2, 2011
Kev
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This climb is 10.b if not 10.a. I am not sure who is upgrading them. Aug 22, 2011
Nate Ball

  5.10
[Hide Comment] The only committing move getting up to the ledge cannot be protected with anything nearby. Even if you did, it would have to be with a long runner, or the rope drag would be terrible. I would second the idea of doing the first half of Dirty Jugs as the primary approach for this route. Aug 29, 2012
Kev
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] For surely not 10.c Jul 3, 2014
Kev
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I have added a bolt on the first pitch or lower half of this climb. No more ground fall potential. Aug 13, 2014
Matt Baker
Portland, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Does not look that great but is one of the better climbs I did today! Just made it down on a 60, pretty awesome! Feb 17, 2015
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Pretty mellow climbing up the direct start to the ledge. Didn't place any gear. Top half is great! Jun 4, 2016
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely a classic! Loved the slight overhang at the end. The holds were great and the portions which required gear were moderate so run-outs aren't an issue. The overall length seems to be around 100' so you definitely get immersed in the process. Can't wait to get back on it!

New stainless steel rap rings at the top, courtesy of Micah. Jun 8, 2016
Hot Smith Guy
Columbia river gorge
 
[Hide Comment] Looks pretty shmeh from the ground but turned out to be a great climb! First clip is much appreciated. After that, run it out to the next bolt. It makes the start a little more exciting. Upper section is well protected. Seems like falls would be clean due to the slight overhang. Apr 21, 2019
Spencer Edgren
Vancouver, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing, great view from the top Jul 25, 2019
J P
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Cruxy bits reminded me of “Split Decision” at Rattlesnake crag in SO. Cool features through the overhang and final section, requires varied technique. Aug 13, 2022
Lyra Goldman
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] I would not climb the start of Dirty Jugs to do this one. The low bolt protects the one slightly hard piece of climbing, where as Dirty Jugs is awkward through the beginning and leads to worse rope drag. I much prefer the original start. Sep 2, 2022
Ruby Pie
Portland, OR
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] I find the comment from 2014 claiming that there is "no more ground fall potential" after the addition of a bolt rather hilarious. If climbing the direct route (not starting on Dirty Jugs) there is a ridiculous runout between bolt 1 and 2. Yes, it's very easy chill climbing but weird shit happens sometimes and if you slipped somewhere in the country mile between bolt 1 and 2 you would most definitely deck. Starting from Dirty Jugs may be a safer option, but the rope drag has got to be enormous. Probably not a great option for those new to leading. All that said, the sustained 5.10 climbing above the 2nd bolt is super fun! A little reachy getting over the bulges up top for someone in the 5'4" camp, but doable without too many intermediates. Bonus: blackcap and thimbleberry bushes offer a snack on the way down if you can reach! Jul 5, 2024
Kev
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This route has zero run out. There is slammer gear in between the first and second bolt. You can choose to run it out but that is on you. This is a mixed route like alot of routes at ozone. Sep 11, 2024